We refer to Botswana as the real Africa. The wide-open spaces, a low population density and one of the last remaining wilderness areas in the world make it a really special place indeed.
We had packed every available space in the trailer and trusted Land Rover Discovery and were enjoying the warmth of the winter sun on our backs when someone mentioned for the umpteenth time this month, what a strange year it has been. It was the middle of July and most deciduous trees still had green leaves. The migrant birds had left late and were still raising chicks at the beginning of winter and the grass was too green and wet to do firebreaks until the end of June. All grunted in agreement as we got into the car and departed for our first overnight stop at the Zeederburg Cottages in Vaalwater.
During sundowners that evening saw the topic being raised again, this time by Arthur Zeederburg, our host. The debate that ensued eventually narrowed and focused on the water flooding Lake Ngami as opposed to flowing into the Boro and Thamalakane Rivers in Maun, and our group agreed that we would visit Lake Ngami, if for no other reason, just for the experience.
Perhaps we had a sundowner too many but Arthur seemed truly saddened that the space in the Land Rover did not allow him to join us on the journey
The Zeederburg’s serve as a magic breakfast called Dorridge and only a visit to Vaalwater will reveal Shelly’s secret. Our dorridge saw us through the 10-hour drive to Maun.
The Botswana officials both at the border and the vetenery fence stops were jovial and friendly, in fact at no point during our visit to Botswana did we experience anything but.
However, our encounter with a group of South Africans in a convoy of 9 Izuzu 4x4’s was less than tasteful. Their ‘go big’ slogan was obviously referring to their stupid arrogant attitude that gives South African tourists the bad reputation they work so hard at deserving.
But back to excitement around why the water from Okavango is filling Lake Ngami and not flowing via the Boro River into the Maun.
Letaka Safari’s director and tour guide, Grant Reed argues that the tectonic plates are moving below the delta and this ‘tilt’ could have altered the directional flow of water.
“The Okavango Delta forms the South point of the Great Rift Valley” says Reed “and this is a complex and dynamic geological fault
This is not the only theory. Albert Michau of Karibu Safaris feels that it is also possible that the “usual” flow of water may also be obstructed by siltation and natural debris. Albert is quiet, unassuming, yet confident and a natural silence befell the campfire as he started to speak “Notwithstanding the geological complexities of the Delta, we must consider other factors before drawing a conclusion and perhaps, even then we could be wrong.” The bush around us was alive with sound and I noted the calls of four of the owls and two nightjars before he continued. “One thing is sure” he says “things are different this year. The Redbilled Queleas (Quelea quelea) have more than doubled in numbers and have nested three times this year already.”
Brent Reed cleared his throat, leaned forward and handed little Royce, son of Albert and Bonnie Michau, back to his mom. “ My information is not yet comprehensive” offered Brent humbly, “ but I will share with you some experiences that might shed some light on the topic.”
“In December 2001 Grant and I took a birding group on safari to Lake Ngami to show our clients a piece of the Delta which, for ten years, had been cut off from the water bearing channels of the rest of the Okavango. Only local rainfall gave it a short life each year. It was a pathetic sight as we looked across grassland that stretched to the horizon. We scoured the area for any sign of life and, in the distance, picked up some shapes circling…too small for vultures and too large for quelias. We got back into the safari vehicle and followed deep ruts made by game and cattle, through the waist high grass. Half an hour later we climbed out and knew that this is what heaven would be like for any ornithologist…there was barely enough water in the pan to cover a rugby field but the bird life was beyond the imagination both in numbers and species. For over an hour we stood with binoculars glued to our eyes only peering down briefly to add to our bird lists. It was a feeding frenzy as the frogs, fish and other aquatic life tried in vain to escape the hungry mouths of pelicans, kingfishers, pratincoles, plovers, flamingoes and many other avian predators.”
“Two of Angola’s largest southern rivers, the Cuito and Cubango, rise in the Bie Plateau” Brent continued. “ And, although they are not far from the Atlantic Ocean to the west, hills and mountains block that route and force them to travel south becoming the Kavango River of Namibia and arriving in the pan handle of Botswana as the Okavango River. They then cross the Gumare fault and split in a digitate fashion into the Delta to form one of the world’s most beautiful ecological jewels.
It is the rains in Angola, contributing 75% of the water in the Delta that determines the extent of the swamp each year. The floods of 2003/2004 ensured that the Okavango River would deliver more than its normal quota to this inland lake. Maun residents anticipated that the Boro River would arrive in April as a result of the heavy rains but April came and went and the river was holding back; every week there was talk that it would arrive the following week but the reluctant bride was dragging her heels. This was cause for concern as, tradition has it, that as the water gets close to the town a large contingent of the younger generation park their vehicles in the dry river bed, spread out the blankets and enjoy a pint or two waiting for the river. Word soon came that Lake Ngami was siphoning the lion’s share of the water; theories were being discussed at length at local pubs and restaurants as to the cause of this sudden change.
The debate that ensued around the campfire left us mortals from Gauteng dumbstruck with awe, these boys really knew their stuff!! But how was one going to determine the validity of their theories?
The next morning we set off from Maun to Lake Ngami, Albert had given Mike a three-minute lesson on the use of his GPS with the following instruction. “ Go west out of Maun, past the Sitatunga Camp, until you get to a white car door under a tree. It’s to the left of that.”
Lake Ngami is at its highest level in 20 years and rising, the tracks of previous visitors to the area disappear into the water and are unpassable. The bird life is spectacular, and yes, the Quella’s sway too and fro from the acacia trees and waters edge like huge swarms of locusts. Each flock folding into and out of another seamlessly, no contact, no confusion, just movement. We followed the birds and waters edge until the sun had tilted towards the west, mostly just breathing in and absorbing the vast stark beauty of nature’s soul.
Fortunately, Mike had paid attention to the GPS lesson and although the Land Rovers ability was tested, we soon found a road to Maun that did not vanish into the rising water.
We arrived back at base in time to join Albert for a boat trip up the Boro River for Sundowners. Damn, life’s tough in Africa. It did however give Mike and I the opportunity to probe the siltation blockage theory with Albert. I played devils advocate and argued that the movement of Elephants and Hippo would surely keep the channels of flow open and there would always be “holes” in the system to let the water through. Albert’s warm smile as he pointed to a Verreaux’s Eagle Owl (Bubo lacteus) perched on the river bank, listening intently to the movement of a catfish that was about to become his next meal left me feeling that my argument held no water at all
“Lake Okavango and the Makgadigadi, were dried up by the sediments carried in by the Okavango River, vegetation debris and windblown soil, about 10000 year ago.” He said, the inflow of water into the delta although vast is not gushing and will always follow a path of least resistance. At the moment it’s not a one or the other but a percentage of balance, although Lake Ngami is filling the water is progressing steadily down the Thamalakane and should reach Maun in two to three days.” Albert’s quiet confident tone left a long silence in the boat that was suddenly broken by the buzz of the outboard motor as he turned the boat for home. The moonlights reflection off the water illuminated our path home and the speed at which we approached the reed beds, banks and other obstacles that melted out of the way as the boat bobbled and weaved passed them reconfirmed how familiar Albert was with the area.
“Meet me at the Airport tomorrow, he instructed….an aerial view of the Delta is always worth seeing.”
We bumped into our pilot in the street and after brief intros and greetings we headed through the airport building towards the Cessna
The awesome spectacle of herds of buffalo hundreds strong, a Giraffe submerged to its belly crossing a water channel. Elephant, lots of elephant and hippo! The flight across the Delta although an unforgettable experience that changed our perceptions of the majesty and magic of Africa forever, did little to answer the tectonic tilt vs siltation debate.
Khwai River, Moremi Game Reserve was home for the next few days. Grant and Brent Reed of Letaka Safaris had made time in their schedule to join us for this leg of the visit.
The Moremi Wildlife officials chatted and joked excitedly on the news that the Letaka boys were going to visit, an obvious fondness for them and their mischievous antics clearly apparent in the good-natured banter.
As the sun set over the Khwai River bridge, Brent Reed took my six year old son, Kyeren to one side of the camp fire and explained the predatory ways of nature. “Stay close to your dad and the fire”, said Brent. “The lion and hyena move freely through the camp.” and as if to prove his point a large Hyena (Crocuta crocuta) passed less than 20m from the fire. “Look, there goes old shifty eyes”, says Kyeren excitedly, but the lesson had been heard.
“So, how do you know that the tectonics plates shift?” Mike asked Brent and Grant. “Did you feel the earth move under your feet?” Kim and Rose spontaneously broke into song and the rest of us chuckled as we took a sip of our drinks.
“I wish it were that simple” Grant’s voice was pensive and thoughtful. “But it helps to understand that the earth as we know it today is a result of seismic movement. The continents separated to roughly where there are about 100 million years ago. About 30 million years ago this continent was rocked by violent geological activity, resulting in the formation of the Great Rift of Africa. Which stretches from the Red sea in the North to the Okavango in the South, and approximately 3 million years ago the Okavango, Chobe and Zambezi Rivers were running eastwards via the Limpopo into the Indian Ocean.
It was a geological event that changed their flow; an unwrapping of the earth’s crust caused the formation of a fault called the Kalahari – Zimbabwe axis. This fault then created one of the largest lakes in Africa – Lake Makgadikgadi which covered about 80000 sq. km. This lake was filled to capacity 20000 years ago and the water had to find another outlet to the Indian Ocean. This outlet connected to the Zambezi and created the Victoria falls it also started draining Lake Makgadikgadi. Then, about 10000 years ago this process caused another geological fault below the Delta, namely the Gumare fault, which is in line with the Selinda spillway and the Linyanti River. This caused a reduction in the slope of the land resulting in the water being spread over a large area and into a fan shaped Delta.
Then at right angles to the flow of the water through the Delta is another fault, the Thamalakane fault, which is the Thamalakane River that runs through Maun. Only a very small percentage of the water that enters the Delta gets to Maun and this year it started filling Lake Ngami first.
The rough, throaty grunt and roar of a lion penetrated our chests momentarily before it was heard and all agreed it was time to retire to our tents. The nocturnal sounds of the Delta were strangely soothing and sleep came easily, perhaps too it was the mental acceptance that sometimes, the answers to our questions were never just going to be black or white and only the passage of natures time would confirm or decline our perceptions and beliefs. Long after we are gone….
Two flat tyres on the Letaka Land Cruiser slowed our trip back to Maun. Fortunately, one of the ammo boxes that were packed into our Discovery contained a puncture repair kit and compressor. The light had softened by the time we reached the outskirts of Maun, and I must confess that I would not have stopped for a small group of children waving excitedly on the side of the road. But, as we passed them I glanced into the rear view mirror to see the Letaka Land Cruiser pull to the side of the road, then turn off towards the village. We turned around and followed.
Grant was still communicating with one of the youngsters in setswana, who was pointing uneasily towards the waters edge, when Brent shot out from behind the vehicle and darted about 20 meters into the water. Moments later emerging with a thrashing, snapping crocodile in hand. I went in and took control of the tail and Grant carefully secured the sharp end. No amount of coaxing could get the young villagers close.
Rose was mortified. “ The croc was submerged! What if it was bigger?” she exclaimed.
“ You can tell the size by the distance between the eyes.” Said Brent “and mostly we get it right. Hey Grant?” Brent continued, smiling wryly.
Grant nervously touched a scar on his left hand, secured the croc and took it back off to the wilderness area. “We People for Wildlife folk must look after nature, and capture and relocation is a big part of that!” exclaimed Grant dryly as he was leaving. “Anyway” he said, “Have you solved the Lake Ngami mystery?”
